Graham Island

Are you wondering where the blog went on our paddle in Gwaii Haanas? Well, I did something unheard of and posted TWO blogs this weekend. I had a cold, what can I say. Sometimes it takes things like a cold to stop me from playing so much. The Gwaii Haanas paddle blog is here: http://jj-adventure.blogspot.com/2014/10/gwaii-haanas-national-park-reserve-and.html 

Our only full day on the most populated island of Haida Gwaii, Graham Island, was spent exploring in shitty weather. I wish I bought this t-shirt. I'm not sure if I would have ever worn it, but man, it cracked me up. We spent our time paddling in the wet and shitty (red) section of the islands and we planned to spend our one soggy day on Graham Island in the cold and shitty (blue) section of the map. After a lovely breakfast at a damp cafe called Queen B's in the town of Queen Charlotte, we headed east to the Haida Heritage Centre to immerse ourselves in their culture even more.

This museum was wonderful - a museum by the Haida people for the Haida people, and sure, for interested tourists too. This place was alive in Haida stories, history, ancestors, music, and crafts. We loved it. We couldn't take photos inside, but we could take photos outside of the longhouse-style buildings and the totem poles. It was in this museum that I learned something, that I'm ashamed to admit I didn't know. Maybe everyone else knew this but me and Jay (please do comment and tell us your story)? We were in a section of the museum that covered the general history of Indians from east to west coast, and I found a blurb about Lord Jeffery Amherst, the man whom Amherst, MA and Amherst College are named after, among other things. Around 1763 the British were struggling against Indians in the Ohio Valley.... from this point on I'm going to quote the facts from A People's History of the United States (Zinn, 1995). "Under orders from British General Jeffery Amherst, the commander of Fort Pitts gave the attacking Indian chiefs, with whom he was negotiating, blankets from the smallpox hospital. It was a pioneering effort at what is now called biological warfare. An epidemic soon spread among the Indians." Well, did you know that? And we name towns and colleges after this man? The University of Massachusetts has a web page devoted to this history with copies of the original letters where Amherst writes things like "inoculate the Indians" and "try every other method that can serve to Extirpate this Execrable Race." Apparently Amherst had no problem with the French though, despite the fact he was supposed to be their enemy as well....he was known to be quite kind to them.

IMAGE COPIED FROM: http://www.historymuseum.ca/cmc/exhibitions/aborig/reid/reid12e.shtml

While reading about all of this in the museum, the wall behind us was looming with artwork from Bill Reid, a world-renowned Haida artist. I'll let you interpret what story he was telling in this piece. Was Amherst responsible for the massive smallpox epidemic that raced though Haida Gwaii in the 1800s? Not directly.....but one must wonder if visiting European traders learned a lesson from Amherst? We don't know that for sure (as far as I know) but we do know the impact the disease had on the people. It is estimated that ~10,000 Haida people lived in the islands pre-European contact. Once smallpox (and other diseases) had their way it is estimated that 90% of the population died and by 1900 it is believed that only ~350 Haida people remained. I am so thankful that some individuals survived these diseases, as well as numerous other blows (like missionaries trying to destroy what remained of their amazing culture). I have learned so much from them - their culture and way of life only make the world a richer place.

I'm standing outside the carving shed at the Haida Heritage Centre with a replica of  Bill Reid's Loo Taas (which means "wave eater") canoe. Pay attention to the shape of the bow, you will want to recall that shape later on in this blog!

 Masset

We drove out along a dirt road toward the far NE corner of Graham Island to check out this cafe we had heard about. It reminded me so much of Gustavus, AK for some reason. When I lived there we didn't really have a place like this, but it would have fit perfectly in that tiny town.... soggy weather, green forest, warm drinks, kind people, and funky art. Perfect place for a hot chai tea!

 O.K. - this might be the largest cedar tree I've ever seen. Seriously

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We drove south from the town of Port Clements along a forest service road to a little signed pull-off that read "Haida canoe." Once we were out of the car we walked along a forest trail for about 10 minutes and came to this amazing find....an abandoned Haida canoe. They estimate that this canoe was abandoned around 100 years ago (this part is sad, as the canoe was probably abandoned due to disease or social change). The Haida people felled the cedar tree right here, kilometers away from the water, and began to shape it into a canoe. At some point, if it has not be abandoned, they would have dragged (??) it through the forest to the water. I can't image getting something this massive out of the forest!

Remember the shape of the bow of the canoe I was standing with at the Haida Heritage Centre? Same shape here.... timeless art.

That evening we were on an overnight ferry back to Prince Rupert. We had some seriously wet camping gear, so we decided to get a cabin on the ferry. Those poor people who let us pay for the room didn't know what we were going to do to it. All our wet camping gear was spread out wherever there was a spot for soggy stuff. It worked! We had a dry tent the next day!

 Jay was super stoked to have a bed for a night!

We woke up in Prince Rupert, drove off the boat, and stumbled around the town looking for good coffee (this isn't an easy request in Canada). I loved this mural because it really does capture the area well - green trees, rain, and gorgeous marine life. Ahhhhh....what a good life we have!

There is one more blog coming from our drive back south to Anacortes! But photos from the rest of the trip can be seen here: https://picasaweb.google.com/111221596171793333099/HaidaGwaii2014AndOtherAreasOfBritishColumbia?authkey=Gv1sRgCO7y6IjJytrt_QE